Wertheim National Wildlife Refuge

Location: Shirley, NY

Size: 2,550 acres

Date of hike: May 23, 2020

Wertheim National Wildlife Refuge is the largest protected wetland on Long Island and includes the estuary of the 10-mile Carmans River, which is the second longest river on Long Island.  I intended to spend the weekend hiking in the Catskills, but I decided to stay closer to home since many trails upstate are still closed due to the coronavirus outbreak.  Besides, I've been eager to explore more of the Carmans River after getting a taste of it several years ago at nearby Southaven County Park.  At last, Carmans here I come!

Prior to hiking, I learned about the history and habitats of Wertheim National Wildlife Refuge, which is administered by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service.  The refuge is in the southern core of the Long Island Central Pine Barrens and is split by the charming Carmans River, which is a state-designated Wild and Scenic River.  The river's estuary boasts a brackish ecosystem, where salt water from Bellport Bay mixes with freshwater flowing south from Cathedral Pines County Park in Middle Island, and the animal and plant species that thrive there are adapted to brackish life.  "Carmans River starts as a freshwater stream and ends in the Great South Bay, providing both fresh and salt water habitats," stated the refuge's pamphlet.  "Hundreds of species of plants, fish, birds and mammals flourish here, depending on the river and the adjacent lands for survival amidst surrounding urbanization."  The land was donated to the U.S. government by investment banker Maurice Wertheim in 1947, with a woman named Lucille Wellington donating an area near the river's mouth.  Today, the refuge is one of 10 units in the Long Island National Wildlife Refuge Complex, which totals some 6,500 acres and protects habitats critical to migratory birds, endangered species and other local wildlife.  

The refuge, which offers over six miles of trails, is located on the west side of Smith Road just south of Sunrise Highway (NY Route 27).  The parking lot is big enough for dozens of cars and the trails start behind the visitor center, which contains an interactive exhibit hall.  There are two trails: Black Tupelo and White Oak.  I began on the Black Tupelo, a 3.4-mile out-and-back path with a little loop at the end.  It goes along the river's east side and has a cool spot called Indian Landing, which was an important meeting place for the Unkechaugs, the first Native Americans to inhabit that section of the Carmans River.  The White Oak Trail has short and long loops that are 1.5 and two miles, respectively.  That trail travels along the river's west side and has two gorgeous overlooks of the river and marsh, which is apparently part of the "longest continuous saltmarsh on Long Island," said the website US-Parks.com.  Trail maps are available at the visitor center and on the websites of the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service and the Friends of Wertheim National Wildlife Refuge.  Lastly, no dogs are allowed.  

The refuge's highlights included the aforementioned Indian Landing and the Carmans River.  Interestingly, the river was formed by a glacier and is about 14,000 years old, according to the Friends of Wertheim National Wildlife Refuge's website.  "Smaller rivers, like Carmans, started as ice melt under the glacier," the site stated.  "When it finally retreated, the land it had pushed down rebounded, and left behind the geology we know today."  The Unkechaug tribe whaled and fished in the river using dugout canoes, some of which held up to 80 people and could be paddled all the way to Boston, according to the refuge's pamphlet.  Eventually, English settlers came for the river's fish and game and built mills, a shipyard and duck farm.  While we're on the subject of duck farms, other highlights included the remnants of a duck farm last active in the 1970s and an arch of the Long Island Rail Road's Montauk Branch.

Regarding wildlife, the refuge has about 300 species of birds and everything from box turtles to wild turkeys, the latter of which can been seen "walking from the forest across roadways and trails in smalls groups of about 10," according to the refuge's website.  The refuge also winters up to 5,000 waterfowl, most of which are black ducks, according to US-Parks.com.  "You'll see wood duck nesting boxes on short poles along the river," the refuge's pamphlet said.  Plant life includes skunk cabbage, blue irises and white swamp azaleas, while tree species include pitch pine, red maples and white oaks.  "The spring bloom decorates the refuge with colorful flowers," the pamphlet stated.  "Autumn colors are equally splendid."

For those wondering, the visitor center is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. until 4 p.m., while the welcome cabin is open on Sundays from noon until 2 p.m.  Nature trails are open seven days a week from sunrise to sunset.  Speaking of the sun, my music of choice was the new album Colours in the Sun by the Australian progressive metal band Voyager, whose vocalist Daniel Estrin describes their sound as "synth wave prog."  I recommend checking out the tracks "Colours," "Brightstar" or "Runaway."  You can thank me later.

Without a doubt, Wertheim is a worthwhile hike for lovers of the outdoors on Long Island.  The river's splendor alone is enough to warrant this walk, but let's not forget the refuge's wildlife and Indian history.  The U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service also says the refuge offers "some of the best canoeing on Long Island," and I can now see why.  This river rocks!  

Map: Wertheim National Wildlife Refuge (Google Maps image)
Parking: 40°47'38.8"N 72°52'51.5"W

Video: Wertheim National Wildlife Refuge (360-degree view)

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